Sorovako, wanda ke tsibirin Sulawesi na Indonesiya, yana daya daga cikin manyan ma'adinan nickel a duniya. Nickel wani sashe ne marar ganuwa na abubuwa da yawa na yau da kullun: yana ɓacewa a cikin bakin karfe, abubuwan dumama a cikin kayan gida da lantarki a cikin batura. An kafa ta sama da shekaru miliyan biyu da suka wuce lokacin da tuddai da ke kusa da Sorovako suka fara bayyana tare da kurakurai masu aiki. Laterites - kasa mai arzikin ƙarfe oxide da nickel - an samo su ne sakamakon zazzagewar damina mai zafi. Lokacin da na tuka babur zuwa kan tudu, nan da nan ƙasa ta canza launi zuwa ja mai ratsi-orange na jini. Ina iya ganin shukar nickel kanta, ƙurar bututu mai launin ruwan kasa mai ƙura kamar girman birni. Tayoyin kananun motoci masu girman mota sun taru. Hanyoyi sun yanke ta cikin tudu masu jajayen tudu kuma manyan tarunanoni suna hana zabtarewar ƙasa. Kamfanin hakar ma'adinai na Mercedes-Benz motocin bas masu hawa biyu na dauke da ma'aikata. Motocin daukar kaya na kamfanin da motocin daukar marasa lafiya a kan hanya suna daga tutar kamfanin. Ƙasar tana da tudu kuma tana da rami, kuma ƙasa mai lebur ɗin ja tana naɗewa cikin trapezoid zigzag. Wurin yana da shingen waya, kofofi, fitulun zirga-zirga da kuma jami'an 'yan sandan kamfanoni da ke sintiri a wani yanki na rangwame kusan girman London.
Kamfanin na PT Vale ne ke gudanar da aikin hakar ma’adinan, wanda wani bangare mallakar gwamnatocin Indonesia da Brazil ne, tare da hannun jarin kasashen Canada, Japan da wasu kamfanoni na kasa da kasa. Indonesiya ita ce kasa mafi girma a duniya wajen samar da nickel, kuma Vale ita ce ta biyu mafi girma a ma'adinan nickel bayan Norilsk Nickel, wani kamfani na Rasha da ke haɓaka ajiya na Siberiya. A watan Maris, bayan mamayar da Rasha ta yi wa Ukraine, farashin nickel ya ninka sau biyu a rana guda kuma an dakatar da ciniki a kasuwar hada-hadar karafa ta London na tsawon mako guda. Abubuwan da ke faruwa irin wannan suna sa mutane kamar Elon Musk mamaki daga ina nickel ya fito. A watan Mayu, ya gana da shugaban Indonesiya Joko Widodo don tattauna yiwuwar "haɗin gwiwa". Yana da sha'awar saboda motocin lantarki masu dogon zango suna buƙatar nickel. Batirin Tesla ya ƙunshi kusan kilogiram 40. Ba abin mamaki ba, gwamnatin Indonesiya tana da sha'awar tafiya zuwa motocin lantarki kuma tana shirin fadada rangwamen ma'adinai. A halin yanzu, Vale ya yi niyyar gina sabbin masana'anta guda biyu a Sorovaco da haɓaka ɗayansu.
Ma'adinin nickel a Indonesiya wani sabon ci gaba ne. A farkon karni na 20, gwamnatin mulkin mallaka na Dutch East Indies ya fara sha'awar "dukiyarsa", tsibiran ban da Java da Madura, waɗanda ke da yawancin tsibirai. A cikin 1915, injiniyan ma'adinan Dutch Eduard Abendanon ya ruwaito cewa ya gano ajiyar nickel a Sorovako. Bayan shekaru ashirin, HR "Flat" Elves, masanin ilimin kasa tare da kamfanin Kanada Inco, ya isa ya haƙa rami na gwaji. A Ontario, Inco yana amfani da nickel don yin tsabar kudi da sassa don makamai, bama-bamai, jiragen ruwa da masana'antu. Yunkurin Elves na faɗaɗa zuwa Sulawesi ya ci tura daga mamayar Japanawa na Indonesiya a cikin 1942. Har zuwa lokacin dawowar Inco a cikin 1960s, nickel ba ya shafa.
Ta hanyar cin nasarar Sorovaco a cikin 1968, Inco ya yi fatan samun riba daga ɗimbin arha na arha da kwangilar fitar da kayayyaki masu fa'ida. Shirin dai shi ne gina injin narka, da dam da za a ciyar da shi, da kuma kwata-kwata, da kuma kawo jami’an kasar Canada da za su kula da shi baki daya. Inco yana son amintaccen shinge ga manajojinsu, wani yanki mai kyau na Arewacin Amurka a cikin dajin Indonesiya. Don gina shi, sun ɗauki hayar membobin ƙungiyar ruhaniya ta Indonesiya Subud. Shugabanta kuma wanda ya kafa ta shine Muhammad Subuh, wanda yayi aiki a matsayin akawu a Java a shekarun 1920. Ya yi iƙirarin cewa, wata rana da dare, yana tafiya, sai wani makauniyar haske ta faɗo a kansa. Hakan ya faru da shi kowane dare na shekaru da yawa, kuma, a cewarsa, ya buɗe “haɗin da ke tsakanin ikon Allah da ke cika dukan sararin samaniya da kuma ran ɗan adam.” A cikin shekarun 1950, ya zo ga hankalin John Bennett, mai binciken burbushin burbushin burbushin Birtaniya kuma mabiyin sufanci George Gurdjieff. Bennett ya gayyaci Subuh zuwa Ingila a 1957 kuma ya koma Jakarta tare da sabon rukuni na daliban Turai da Australia.
A cikin 1966, ƙungiyar ta ƙirƙira wani kamfanin injiniya mara kyau mai suna International Design Consultants, wanda ya gina makarantu da gine-ginen ofis a Jakarta (shi ma ya tsara babban shirin na Darling Harbor a Sydney). Ya ba da shawarar wani yanki mai tsattsauran ra'ayi a Sorovako, wani yanki dabam da Indonesiya, mai nisa da hargitsin ma'adinai, amma sun tanadar da su sosai. A cikin 1975, an gina al'umma mai gated tare da babban kanti, kotunan wasan tennis da kuma gidan wasan golf na ma'aikatan ƙasashen waje a tazarar kilomita kaɗan daga Sorovako. 'Yan sanda masu zaman kansu suna gadin kewaye da ƙofar babban kanti. Inco yana samar da wutar lantarki, ruwa, na'urorin sanyaya iska, wayoyi da abinci da aka shigo da su. A cewar Katherine May Robinson, ƙwararriyar ɗan adam da ta gudanar da aikin fage a can tsakanin 1977 zuwa 1981, “mata masu guntun wando na Bermuda da buns za su tuka mota zuwa babban kanti don su sayi pizza daskararre sannan su tsaya cin abinci da kuma shan kofi a waje. Dakin mai kwandishan da ke kan hanyar zuwa gida shine "batsa na zamani" daga gidan abokin.
Har yanzu ana gadi da sintiri a unguwar. Yanzu haka manyan shugabannin Indonesiya na zaune a wurin, a wani gida da ke da lambuna mai kyau. Amma wuraren jama'a sun cika da ciyawa, fashe-fashe da siminti, da kuma wuraren wasa masu tsatsa. An yi watsi da wasu daga cikin bungalows kuma dazuzzuka sun mamaye wurinsu. An gaya mini cewa wannan fanni shine sakamakon siyan Vale na Inco a cikin 2006 da ƙaura daga cikakken lokaci zuwa aikin kwangila da ƙarin ma'aikatan hannu. Bambance-bambancen da ke tsakanin unguwannin bayan gari da Sorovako yanzu ya dogara da aji kawai: manajoji suna zaune a cikin bayan gari, ma'aikata suna zaune a cikin birni.
Ba za a iya samun damar da kanta ba, tare da kusan murabba'in kilomita 12,000 na tsaunuka masu katako da aka kewaye da shinge. Akwai kofofi da dama kuma ana sintiri akan hanyoyin. Yankin da ake hako ma'adinai - kusan kilomita murabba'i 75 - an yi masa shinge da shingen waya. Watarana da daddare ina hawa babur dina sama na tsaya. Ban iya ganin tulin tulin tulin da ke ɓoye a bayan tudun ba, amma ina kallon ragowar ƙamshin, wanda har yanzu yana kusa da zafin lava, yana gangarowa cikin dutsen. Wani haske na lemu ya kunna, sai ga gajimare ya tashi a cikin duhu, ya baje har sai da iska ta dauke shi. A kowane ƴan mintuna, sabon fashewar da mutum ya yi yana haskaka sararin samaniya.
Hanya daya tilo da wadanda ba ma’aikata ba za su iya shiga cikin ma’adinan ita ce ta tafkin Matano, don haka na hau jirgi. Sai Amos, wanda ke zaune a bakin teku, ya bi da ni ta cikin gonakin barkono, har muka isa gindin abin da yake a dā dutse, kuma yanzu ya zama ƙwanƙolin harsashi, babu. Wani lokaci za ku iya yin aikin hajji zuwa wurin da aka samo asali, kuma watakila wannan shi ne inda wani ɓangare na nickel ya fito daga cikin abubuwan da suka ba da gudummawa ga tafiye-tafiye na: motoci, jiragen sama, babur, kwamfutar tafi-da-gidanka, wayoyi.
Editor London Review of Books, 28 Little Russell Street London, WC1A 2HNletters@lrb.co.uk Please provide name, address and telephone number.
The Editor London Review of Books 28 Little Russell Street London, WC1A 2HN Letters@lrb.co.uk Please provide name, address and phone number
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