Sorovako, wanda ke tsibirin Sulawesi na ƙasar Indonesiya, yana ɗaya daga cikin manyan ma'adinan nickel a duniya. Nickel wani ɓangare ne da ba a iya gani a cikin abubuwa da yawa na yau da kullun: yana ɓacewa a cikin bakin ƙarfe, yana dumama abubuwa a cikin kayan gida da kuma electrodes a cikin batura. An samar da shi sama da shekaru miliyan biyu da suka gabata lokacin da tuddai a kusa da Sorovako suka fara bayyana tare da lahani masu aiki. Laterites - ƙasa mai arziki a cikin ƙarfe oxide da nickel - an samar da su ne sakamakon lalacewar ruwan sama mai ɗumi. Lokacin da na tuka keken simintin zuwa kan tudun, nan da nan ƙasa ta canza launi zuwa ja tare da ratsi masu launin ja. Na ga shukar nickel da kanta, wani bututun hayaki mai ƙura mai launin ruwan kasa mai girman birni. An tara ƙananan tayoyin mota masu girman mota. Hanyoyi da aka yanke ta cikin tsaunuka masu tsayi da manyan raga suna hana zaftarewar ƙasa. Kamfanin haƙar ma'adinai na Mercedes-Benz yana ɗaukar ma'aikata. Ana ɗaga tutar kamfanin ta motocin ɗaukar kaya na kamfanin da motocin ɗaukar marasa lafiya. Ƙasa tana da tudu kuma tana da ramuka, kuma an naɗe ƙasa mai faɗi ja zuwa cikin trapezoid mai zigzag. Ana tsaron wurin da waya mai kauri, ƙofofi, fitilun zirga-zirga da kuma 'yan sanda na kamfanoni suna sintiri a wani yanki da aka amince da shi wanda ya kai girman Landan.
Kamfanin PT Vale ne ke gudanar da wannan ma'adinai, wanda wani ɓangare na gwamnatin Indonesia da Brazil ne, tare da hannun jarin kamfanonin Kanada, Japan da sauran ƙasashe masu tasowa. Indonesia ita ce babbar mai samar da nickel a duniya, kuma Vale ita ce ta biyu mafi girma a cikin hakar nickel bayan Norilsk Nickel, wani kamfanin Rasha da ke haɓaka ma'adinan Siberian. A watan Maris, bayan mamayar Rasha a Ukraine, farashin nickel ya ninka a cikin kwana ɗaya kuma an dakatar da ciniki a kasuwar ƙarfe ta London na tsawon mako guda. Abubuwan da suka faru kamar wannan sun sa mutane kamar Elon Musk ke mamakin inda nickel ɗinsu ya fito. A watan Mayu, ya haɗu da shugaban Indonesia Joko Widodo don tattauna yiwuwar "haɗin gwiwa". Yana da sha'awa saboda motocin lantarki masu dogon zango suna buƙatar nickel. Batirin Tesla yana ɗauke da kimanin kilogiram 40. Ba abin mamaki ba ne, gwamnatin Indonesia tana da sha'awar ƙaura zuwa motocin lantarki kuma tana shirin faɗaɗa yarjejeniyoyi na hakar ma'adinai. A halin yanzu, Vale yana da niyyar gina sabbin na'urorin haƙa nickel guda biyu a Sorovaco da haɓaka ɗaya daga cikinsu.
Haƙar ma'adinan nickel a Indonesia wani sabon ci gaba ne. A farkon ƙarni na 20, gwamnatin mulkin mallaka ta Dutch East Indies ta fara sha'awar "mallakar ta", tsibiran banda Java da Madura, waɗanda suka ƙunshi mafi yawan tsibiran. A shekarar 1915, injiniyan haƙar ma'adinai na Holland Eduard Abendanon ya ba da rahoton cewa ya gano wani wurin hakar ma'adinai na nickel a Sorovako. Shekaru ashirin bayan haka, HR "Flat" Elves, masanin ƙasa tare da kamfanin Kanada Inco, ya isa ya haƙa ramin gwaji. A Ontario, Inco yana amfani da nickel don yin tsabar kuɗi da sassa na makamai, bama-bamai, jiragen ruwa da masana'antu. Yunkurin Elves na faɗaɗa zuwa Sulawesi ya gamu da cikas sakamakon mamayar da Japan ta yi wa Indonesia a 1942. Har zuwa dawowar Inco a shekarun 1960, nickel ba shi da wani tasiri sosai.
Ta hanyar cin nasarar yarjejeniyar Sorovaco a shekarar 1968, Inco ya yi fatan samun riba daga kwangilolin aiki masu rahusa da kuma samun riba daga fitar da kayayyaki. Shirin shine gina na'urar haƙa mai, madatsar ruwa don ciyar da ita, da kuma wurin hakar ma'adinai, da kuma kawo ma'aikatan Kanada don su kula da ita duka. Inco yana son wani wuri mai aminci ga manajojinsu, wani yanki mai tsaro mai kyau na Arewacin Amurka a cikin dajin Indonesiya. Don gina shi, sun ɗauki ma'aikatan ƙungiyar ruhaniya ta Indonesiya mai suna Subud. Shugabanta kuma wanda ya kafa ta shine Muhammad Subuh, wanda ya yi aiki a matsayin akawu a Java a shekarun 1920. Ya yi iƙirarin cewa wata dare, lokacin da yake tafiya, wani haske mai duhu ya faɗo masa a kai. Wannan ya faru da shi kowace dare tsawon shekaru da yawa, kuma, a cewarsa, ya buɗe "haɗin kai tsakanin ikon allahntaka wanda ke cika dukkan sararin samaniya da ruhin ɗan adam." A shekarun 1950, John Bennett, wani mai binciken man fetur na Burtaniya kuma mai bin George Gurdjieff mai sihiri ya jawo hankalinsa. Bennett ya gayyaci Subuh zuwa Ingila a shekarar 1957 kuma ya koma Jakarta tare da sabbin ɗaliban Turai da Ostiraliya.
A shekarar 1966, ƙungiyar ta ƙirƙiri wani kamfanin injiniya mai suna International Design Consultants, wanda ya gina makarantu da gine-ginen ofisoshi a Jakarta (ta kuma tsara babban tsarin Darling Harbor da ke Sydney). Ya gabatar da wani wuri mai ban sha'awa na masu fitar da kaya a Sorovako, wani yanki daban da 'yan Indonesiya, nesa da rudanin ma'adinai, amma sun samar da shi gaba ɗaya. A shekarar 1975, an gina wata al'umma mai ƙofa tare da babban kanti, filin wasan tennis da kuma kulob ɗin golf ga ma'aikatan ƙasashen waje a nisan kilomita kaɗan daga Sorovako. 'Yan sanda masu zaman kansu suna tsaron kewaye da ƙofar babban kanti. Inco tana samar da wutar lantarki, ruwa, na'urorin sanyaya iska, wayoyi da abinci da aka shigo da su daga ƙasashen waje. A cewar Katherine May Robinson, wata masaniyar ɗan adam wacce ta gudanar da aikin filin wasa a can tsakanin 1977 da 1981, "mata sanye da gajeren wando na Bermuda da burodi suna tuƙi zuwa babban kanti don siyan pizza mai daskarewa sannan su tsaya don cin abinci da shan kofi a waje. Ɗakin mai sanyaya iska a kan hanyarsu ta komawa gida "yaudara ce ta zamani" daga gidan aboki.
Har yanzu ana tsaron yankin kuma ana sintiri a yankin. Yanzu manyan shugabannin Indonesiya suna zaune a wurin, a cikin gida mai lambu mai kyau. Amma wuraren jama'a sun cika da ciyawa, simintin da ya fashe, da wuraren wasa masu tsatsa. An yi watsi da wasu daga cikin gidajen kuma dazuzzuka sun maye gurbinsu. An gaya mini cewa wannan gurɓataccen wuri ya faru ne sakamakon sayen Inco da Vale ta yi a shekarar 2006 da kuma ƙaura daga cikakken lokaci zuwa aikin kwangila da kuma ma'aikata masu motsi. Bambancin da ke tsakanin unguwannin da Sorovako yanzu ya dogara ne kawai a kan aji: manajoji suna zaune a unguwannin, ma'aikata suna zaune a birni.
Ba a iya isa ga wannan rangwamen ba, inda aka kewaye tsaunuka kusan murabba'in kilomita 12,000 na daji da shinge. An yi wa ƙofofi da dama shinge kuma ana sintiri a kan tituna. Yankin da aka haƙa ma'adinai - kusan murabba'in kilomita 75 - an yi masa shinge da waya mai kauri. Wata dare ina hawa babur dina a kan tudu na tsaya. Ban ga tarin tarkacen da aka ɓoye a bayan tudun ba, amma na kalli ragowar ƙamshin, wanda har yanzu yana kusa da zafin lava, yana saukowa daga dutsen. Hasken lemu ya kunna, sannan gajimare ya tashi a cikin duhu, yana yaɗuwa har sai da iska ta hura shi. Bayan 'yan mintuna kaɗan, sabon fashewar da ɗan adam ya yi ya haskaka sararin samaniya.
Hanya ɗaya tilo da waɗanda ba ma'aikata ba za su iya shiga ma'adinan ita ce ta tafkin Matano, don haka na hau jirgin ruwa. Sai Amos, wanda ke zaune a bakin teku, ya jagorance ni ta gonakin barkono har sai da muka isa ƙasan abin da a da yake dutse kuma yanzu ya zama harsashi mara zurfi, rashinsa. Wani lokaci za ku iya yin aikin hajji zuwa wurin da aka samo asali, kuma wataƙila a nan ne wani ɓangare na nickel ya fito daga cikin abubuwan da suka ba da gudummawa ga tafiye-tafiyena: motoci, jiragen sama, babura, kwamfyutocin tafi-da-gidanka, wayoyi.
Editor London Review of Books, 28 Little Russell Street London, WC1A 2HNletters@lrb.co.uk Please provide name, address and telephone number.
The Editor London Review of Books 28 Little Russell Street London, WC1A 2HN Letters@lrb.co.uk Please provide name, address and phone number
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